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Make your tux deluxe
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There are plenty of ways to pretty up that penguin suit.
By DOUGLAS J. GUTH
Once upon a time, fashion experts mandated that a groom's attire should be appropriate to the time and mood of the wedding. They declared long, tapered morning suit jackets suitable for a formal daytime wedding. After 6 p.m., the classic "white tie and tails," with a jacket that is short at the waist and drops in back, was de rigueur.
These fashion restrictions no longer apply, says Nancy McDonald, marketing director of Tuxedo Junction. The "morning coat," or "cutaway," - a long black or gray coat that tapers from the waistline button to a broadtail in back with a vent - was replaced years ago by the tuxedo, which was traditionally worn at night.
"I would estimate that morning coats amount to only 10% of my rentals," says Jim Cunningham, wholesale manager at Ohio Tuxedo. The store carries over 50 styles of tuxedoes and only two styles of morning coats.
"People are now donning tuxes no matter what time of day the wedding is," McDonald says. "They want to wear what they feel is going to be most comfortable."
Putting on a tuxedo doesn't mean you will be automatically restricted to a black bow tie and cummerbund. There are dozens of hip, stylish ways to jazz up that penguin suit, which comes in three-, six- and seven-button styles.
To add panache, choose, a vest over the venerable cummerbund, which was originally used by gentlemen to stash their gloves or theater tickets. It also served as a fantastic "crumb catcher" while at the dinner table.
A fashionable fabric like satin can be used for the vest. Grooms and their groomsmen can even coordinate their vest colors to match the bridesmaids' dresses, be it jewel tones, pastels, or various shades of silver, says McDonald.
A new line of vests from designer Perry Ellis offers 18 different colors; everything from earth tones to baby blue to mandarin orange, notes Cunningham of Ohio Tuxedo.
Those looking beyond monochrome colors might prefer a vest with a geometric or abstract pattern, which can be worn with a plain tie that coordinates with the vest's fabric.
Gray is making a comeback for the tuxedo itself; particularly medium-tone grays for those tired of plain black. However, that is about the extent of your tux's color options, McDonald adds. So, unless you're planning to headline the Emerald Room at the Sioux Falls, S.D., Holiday Inn after the ceremony, don't show up in a powder blue tuxedo.
You can also engineer a different look with your choice of tie: Many prefer the distinctive bow tie, as well as the classic Windsor tie, featuring the traditional triangle knot. Those who want to go sans tie might like a button cover that snaps at the throat.
The newest, most fashion-forward item is the ascot, also known as a cravat. The high-style ascot was first worn in Europe and consists of a piece of fabric folded neatly into the collar area. It is often made out of satin and can be the same color as the vest. Ascots work well with a single-breasted black tux with a pointed, "peak" lapel, says Cunningham.
Generally, grooms should give the men's attire the same attention the bride gives the women's. Bridesmaids get their dresses months in advance, and "men should be given plenty of time to get fitted into their tuxes," advises McDonald. Check sleeve lengths on coat, jacket and shirt, the waist and inseam on trousers, and collar sizes on the shirt. When trying on tuxedos and accessories, make sure to have a groomsman on hand to give you an honest opinion about fit.
Although the groom is not supposed to see what the bride is wearing, the couple can share information so their colors won't clash. "Remember, you and your bride are going to look at those wedding pictures for years to come," McDonald says.
By DOUGLAS J. GUTH
Once upon a time, fashion experts mandated that a groom's attire should be appropriate to the time and mood of the wedding. They declared long, tapered morning suit jackets suitable for a formal daytime wedding. After 6 p.m., the classic "white tie and tails," with a jacket that is short at the waist and drops in back, was de rigueur.
These fashion restrictions no longer apply, says Nancy McDonald, marketing director of Tuxedo Junction. The "morning coat," or "cutaway," - a long black or gray coat that tapers from the waistline button to a broadtail in back with a vent - was replaced years ago by the tuxedo, which was traditionally worn at night.
"I would estimate that morning coats amount to only 10% of my rentals," says Jim Cunningham, wholesale manager at Ohio Tuxedo. The store carries over 50 styles of tuxedoes and only two styles of morning coats.
"People are now donning tuxes no matter what time of day the wedding is," McDonald says. "They want to wear what they feel is going to be most comfortable."
Putting on a tuxedo doesn't mean you will be automatically restricted to a black bow tie and cummerbund. There are dozens of hip, stylish ways to jazz up that penguin suit, which comes in three-, six- and seven-button styles.
To add panache, choose, a vest over the venerable cummerbund, which was originally used by gentlemen to stash their gloves or theater tickets. It also served as a fantastic "crumb catcher" while at the dinner table.
A fashionable fabric like satin can be used for the vest. Grooms and their groomsmen can even coordinate their vest colors to match the bridesmaids' dresses, be it jewel tones, pastels, or various shades of silver, says McDonald.
A new line of vests from designer Perry Ellis offers 18 different colors; everything from earth tones to baby blue to mandarin orange, notes Cunningham of Ohio Tuxedo.
Those looking beyond monochrome colors might prefer a vest with a geometric or abstract pattern, which can be worn with a plain tie that coordinates with the vest's fabric.
Gray is making a comeback for the tuxedo itself; particularly medium-tone grays for those tired of plain black. However, that is about the extent of your tux's color options, McDonald adds. So, unless you're planning to headline the Emerald Room at the Sioux Falls, S.D., Holiday Inn after the ceremony, don't show up in a powder blue tuxedo.
You can also engineer a different look with your choice of tie: Many prefer the distinctive bow tie, as well as the classic Windsor tie, featuring the traditional triangle knot. Those who want to go sans tie might like a button cover that snaps at the throat.
The newest, most fashion-forward item is the ascot, also known as a cravat. The high-style ascot was first worn in Europe and consists of a piece of fabric folded neatly into the collar area. It is often made out of satin and can be the same color as the vest. Ascots work well with a single-breasted black tux with a pointed, "peak" lapel, says Cunningham.
Generally, grooms should give the men's attire the same attention the bride gives the women's. Bridesmaids get their dresses months in advance, and "men should be given plenty of time to get fitted into their tuxes," advises McDonald. Check sleeve lengths on coat, jacket and shirt, the waist and inseam on trousers, and collar sizes on the shirt. When trying on tuxedos and accessories, make sure to have a groomsman on hand to give you an honest opinion about fit.
Although the groom is not supposed to see what the bride is wearing, the couple can share information so their colors won't clash. "Remember, you and your bride are going to look at those wedding pictures for years to come," McDonald says.
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